Nestled far up in the northwestern corner of Punjab, Amritsar is easier to reach than what you might imagine; with this thought we began our recent trip to Amritsar, Dharamshala & Dalhousie in December to enjoy a long awaited vacation. I have always been a history buff and particularly about our country so naturally a trip to Amritsar was always on the cards because of many historical places and the nearby border with Pakistan, popularly known as 'Wagah Border' although Wagah is a place in Pakistan, the Indian side of the border is at an area called 'Attari'.
We had planned quite extensively and had the itinerary ready, so here is the story of the trip:
DAY 1
- We had landed up in Amritsar at 11 in the morning via a flight from Ahmedabad. We then proceeded to check into a hotel near the Market area adjacent to Partition Museum. The atmosphere was great and it took some time for us to soak in everything. The city is filled with delicious smells of chole Kulche, bazaars, tea-stalls, kulfis and fresh lassi. You will also find cycle rickshaws plying around in narrow old city streets and some friendly locals.
Coming back to the Partition Museum, it is very well put together with a lot of anecdotes from the people who had gone through the pain, it was the largest migration in human history. The museum documents the catastrophic loss of life and livelihood through testimonials of the partition survivors.
- After Partition Museum, we had made our way to Attari/Wagah border, it is located some 22 to 30 kms from Amritsar market, with scenic views on either side. There is a stadium constructed at the border where people can sit and watch the ceremonies being conducted by the BSF.
If you had been a nationalist, this spot will heighten that emotion further. The 110 meter long Indian flagpole happens to be the highest flagpole in the country.
The flag retreat ceremony is a treat to watch and the atmosphere is filled with patriotism. The ceremony involves elaborate drills, synchronized marching and the lowering of both countries' flags and a show of mutual respect. The event is a public spectacle drawing tourists from all over the world. I would recommend everyone a visit at least once here to witness this. The feeling is literally something else.
There is also a BSF museum detailing the history of BSF along with its achievements.
The 110 meter Indian flagpole 
- We had a night walk around the Golden Temple complex and it was beautiful to see the temple with all the lights. The place is huge and you can see people milling around, volunteering and helping others. It was an unforgettable experience. The market around temple complex is quite unique and you would not be blamed if you go for shopping or having lassi, we had ended our Day 1 with some amazing memories. It's a city of pilgrimages.
DAY 2
- Day 2 began early as we went in for a morning walk to the market near the Partition Museum and walked all the way till Golden Temple. Its a shoppers' delight, you can easily get good quality clothes/footwear with reasonable prices all around in the market. The air is usually quite fresh.
- We had our breakfast at the hotel where we had stayed and quality of the food was good, in fact that's what we had observed in our trip; you may leave here with few kilos added to your weight. Ghee is a staple in Punjabi cooking and the local butter is found in hot naans, dals, curries and rotis. 'Kesar Da Dhaba' & 'Brothers' Da Dhaba' are two must visit Dhabas in Amritsar according to me.
- Our next stop was the Jallianwala Bagh, the place where I was filled with sadness. It's a place which reminds us of the cruelty of General Dyer and his men who had shot down innocent people. It has walls ridden with bullet holes and memorial plaques displaying the happenings of the dreaded massacre. The garden is maintained impeccably with galleries providing the information about the history. The true account of Jallianwala Bagh brutality is too hard for me to describe here hence just focusing on the tourist side of the story.
Things to see in the Jallianwala Bagh Compound
- A section of the wall that still bears the bullet marks.
- The Martyr's well, the well into which people had jumped on that day to escape bullet shots.
- A semi-circular section that presents the place from where British soldiers had fired at the people.
- Flame of Liberty, the memorial built in memory of martyrs
- The martyrs galleries with audio visual notes. - With a tinge of sadness, we left Jallianwala Bagh and went back to our hotel and proceeded towards Dharmshala during the day. That will be covered in the Part II of this travelogue. Some pictures of Jallianwala Bagh.
